Days 45 & 46: Exploring Northern Ios

Day 45: Tuesday 2nd August 2022

Another Quiet Day

I started off the morning with some productive work from my hotel room, followed by a sun-kissed swim at the beach.

For lunch, I treated myself to a delicious chicken burger at Far Out Village and quenched my thirst with a refreshing Coke. After a productive afternoon at the hotel, I hit the gym for a much-needed workout and cooled off with a visit to Far Out Village.

To wrap up the day, I explored new dining options and headed to the Mexican-themed Harmony restaurant, perched atop a hillside with stunning views of Mylopotas beach.

I had tried visiting Harmony on my last trip in 2021, but was disappointed to find it closed. This time around, I was in luck as it was open and bustling with people. I managed to snag one of the few empty tables and was treated to live music by a talented young guitarist. My table was just a few feet away from the performance, but the relaxed atmosphere made for an enjoyable experience.

The menu offered a variety of options, making it difficult for me to choose. I ultimately decided to go for both the chicken tenders and chilli nachos. To my delight, the portions were just right and the food was outstanding. I was thrilled to have finally given Harmony a try and felt sure I would return before leaving the island.

Day 46: Wednesday 3rd August 2022

Embrace adventure on Ios with a scooter rental! I kicked off my day with a filling breakfast at the hotel and made my way to Costa’s Moto Club, located just a short walk down the beach road. I was a repeat customer of Costa’s, having rented from them on previous trips, and appreciated their reasonably priced options, even if the vehicles showed a bit of wear and tear. This was my first time renting a moped on the island, but after gaining confidence riding one on Astypalea, I decided to switch things up and save some money by opting for a scooter instead of the pricier quad bikes (ATVs).

Homer’s Tomb and North Coast Beaches

With a quick stop at the hotel to grab my essentials and hit the road, I revved up my engine and headed north towards the historic site of Homer’s Tomb. I had visited it before on my first trip to Ios back in 2017, but I was eager to give it another look and combine it with exploring the breathtaking beaches along the north coast. The roughly 30-minute ride gave me a glimpse into the vast and mostly untouched beauty of Ios – once past the bustling Chora, the roads were lined with sparse farms, tranquil greenery, and breathtaking – if slightly barren – vistas.

To my surprise, the site of Homer’s Tomb had undergone quite a transformation since my last visit. A small parking circle with a shaded seating area now welcomes visitors, making for a more comfortable and convenient experience.

I’m pretty sure the site itself has been relocated, too, as I recalled the headstone facing east before and now it faces northeast with no hills visible behind:

While the tomb wasn’t exactly thrilling, I couldn’t resist capturing the moment with photos and videos.

Next stop: Plakotos Beach. Sadly, the shore was littered with seaweed, making it less than ideal for a swim. Undeterred, I scouted out another beach with the same name, but found it just as empty and uninviting. Both beaches paled in comparison to the stunning sandy stretches elsewhere on the island. But even so, it was an enlightening experience that allowed me to see more of the beautiful island of Ios.

Kampaki & Getting Stuck

I set out for Kampaki beach southwest of my current location. I had heard of a secluded path that would lead me there and I was eager to explore it on my scooter. Little did I know, it would be a test of my riding skills (and nerves)!

The journey started off smoothly, but as I ventured deeper into the low hills, the road became bumpier and more rugged. I didn’t let it stop me though, I pressed on, maneuvering my way around large stones and avoiding potholes. But the further I went, the more challenging the path became until finally, I hit a roadblock. The track was nearly impassable, even at walking speed, and I didn’t want to risk getting stuck. I managed to turn my scooter around and retreated back to the main road.

Despite the setback, I didn’t give up on reaching Kampaki beach. I headed back southwest and braved another steep descent to the sea level. The scenic views were worth the journey, but unfortunately, the beach itself wasn’t as awe-inspiring as I had hoped. Nonetheless, I made some unforgettable memories and learned to always be ready for a wild ride!

Back to Chora

After exploring all the sights worth visiting on the north side of the island, I made my way back to Chora and headed down to the port in search of lunch. I stopped at Buongiono Bakery and savored a delicious baguette with pepperoni, tomato, and Philadelphia, washed down with a Freddo espresso and Sprite. Sitting outside in the shade, I watched the bustle of the port and refueled for my next adventure.

Next on my itinerary was the church of Agia Irini, offering breathtaking views of the bay:

Koumpara, Erego and Pathos

I made my way past Tzamaria beach and reached the popular Koumpara beach, with its sandy shores and calm sea. Surprised to find two clubs nearby – EREGO beach club and Pathos – I decided to check out the latter. Despite it being early and not very busy, I was in for a shock when I learned of the minimum €100 spend requirement for a table reservation. Luckily, cheaper (i.e. free) seating was available, albeit in less prime spots.

I wasn’t really dressed for partying and felt a bit sticky from a hot day of sightseeing, so I decided on a quick change back at my hotel. I returned to the club about an hour later, which was now bustling with energy. I treated myself to a bottle of Sol (€7!) and enjoyed the music, taking a swim and admiring the views from the pool as the sun set.

Dinner Time

Being unable to drink much on account of the moped (and the extortionate prices), I left before sunset and rode back around to the port in search of a spot for dinner as a change from eating in Mylopotas.

After strolling around a bit, I settled on an Asian restaurant called Thai Me Up and had a nice red curry with some spring rolls to start. It was dark by the time I rode back to my resort and slightly chilly on the moped with just a vest on, but I’d had a great day.