Days 42: Kos to Amorgos

Saturday 30th July 2022

Back to the Cyclades

Farewell, Kos! It’s been an incredible two weeks (well, 15 days to be exact), but it’s time for me to set sail once again. I’m hopping on the same ferry that carried me off back in 2021 and heading to the breathtaking island of Amorgos in the Cyclades.

Don’t get me wrong, I’ve loved every moment of my time here in Kos. But let’s be real, five weeks on this island in the past two years is more than enough for one lifetime. I don’t think I’ll be back anytime soon, but if you’re thinking of visiting Kos, don’t let my departure stop you. Trust me, you’ll have an amazing time. Just make sure to pack plenty of sunscreen!

Packing and Ferry Crossing

My ferry was scheduled to depart at 12:05, so I had plenty of time to get packed up and ready to go. I started my day with a tasty breakfast at the hotel and then spent a couple of hours lounging by the pool, soaking up the sun and catching up on some reading. Before checking out, I made a quick stop at the mini market near Dolphin roundabout to stock up on some essentials for the journey: protein shakes, water, and of course, a cold beer!

With my room vacated by 11, I decided to kill some time by taking a stroll around the marina. I come across a little cafe called Neo Sintrivani and decide to grab a beer and a sausage baguette. The beer was delicious, but the baguette was a total disappointment – the sausages were tiny and barely filled half of the bread. Not worth the €5 but oh well, you live and learn!

As I was munching on my baguette, I checked the Marine Traffic website to track the progress of my ferry. It was getting close to Kos Town, so I finished up my snack and headed down to the port. I saw the ferry approaching as I walked and realised I’d timed it perfectly.

Boarding a Greek ferry is always a chaotic experience, but I’m a pro at this point and managed to get to the ramp ahead of the horde of other passengers. I quickly stowed my suitcase and managed to snag a table upstairs in the outdoor seating area. Unfortunately, I was soon surrounded by smokers, so I reluctantly gave up my prime spot and moved to some seats down the side of the ship. It was a bit breezy, but at least the air was smoke-free!

The crossing took about 3.5 hours – slightly longer than advertised. Just like last year, we had to wait at Katapola Harbour for another ferry to finish loading and unloading before we could dock. But hey, it’s all part of the adventure!

Hotel Landeris

Unlike last year, I’m better prepared and secured a cosy place to rest my head in Katapola. No need to catch a bus up to Aegiali for just an overnight stay this time – I’m only here until tomorrow to catch my onward ferry, so it made sense to stay close to the port. I chose Hotel Landeris for its convenient location and affordable price tag. As you can see from the photo I snapped just after arriving, it’s a stone’s throw away from the port. Score!

In the background, you can see Blue Star 2 still in the harbour just a few minutes after I got off.

When I first arrived at the reception, there was nobody around but I was sure I had the right place. Just as I was about to dial the hotel’s number on my phone, a lady came in the door behind me and explained that she was the manager of both Landeris and its sister hotel, Minoa, just around the corner. She’d been at the other hotel and then remembered I was checking in here, so came straight across.

My room was upstairs above reception, a large-ish self-contained studio with a double and a single bed, a kitchenette, a bathroom and a balcony overlooking the narrow street below. Overkill for one night, but everything looked clean and the bed felt comfortable – it seemed like a good choice.

Shower and an Impromptu Hike

As I made my way from the ferry to my hotel, I couldn’t help but feel a bit of a routine setting in. After all, it’s not every day that I find myself sweaty and in need of a shower after such a short walk. But, feeling refreshed and ready to tackle the afternoon, I decided to set out and pick up my ticket for the ferry to Ios, my next destination. I had taken the unusual step of booking online, as I had heard that the Express Skopelitis ferry can get quite busy during peak season and it’s a smaller boat.

I headed to the travel agency just east of my hotel and asked about my ticket. Unfortunately, the woman at the desk told me that they couldn’t print it at the moment, but if I came back in a couple of hours it should be sorted. Feeling slightly frustrated, I went back to the hotel to plan my next move.

Pleasant Breeze, Beautiful Views

Here I was on the island of Amorgos with no car and not much to do, that is, until I remembered the ancient Minoan ruins on a hill south of my resort. I looked up the directions and saw that it was only a 2.7-kilometre hike, mostly uphill, but I figured it would be a good opportunity to take some photos and videos. I slathered on some sunscreen, grabbed my camera and some water, and set off on an impromptu hike.

As I walked up the hill, I was pleasantly surprised by how cool it was compared to the heat on Kos. The breeze and drop in temperature made the hike much more enjoyable than I had anticipated. The ascent was more gradual than I expected and the dirt track road was smooth, so the walk was comfortable. The biggest challenge came when I reached the ruins and had to find a way to the top. There was no clear path, so I just climbed up the side of the hill until I reached the highest point. The views from the top were definitely worth the effort:

Back Down, Tickets and Dinner

After about 40 minutes of hiking, I arrived at the top and took some photos before heading back down. I returned to the village around 5:30 pm and stopped at a travel agency to finally get my ferry ticket printed. I also stocked up on supplies at a mini-market before heading back to my hotel for a shower and some relaxation.

For dinner, I went to Corner Taverna, a favourite spot from my previous visits, and had a delicious moussaka with baked feta cheese in pastry and honey. I sat at the table for a while to enjoy the sunset and the atmosphere before heading back to my hotel. I stopped at the reception of the sister hotel, Minoa, to pay my room bill so I could leave early in the morning, and then returned to my room for an early night.