Day 71: Travelling from Stalis, Crete, to Aegina via Piraeus

Sunday 28th August 2022

Early Start

After waking up to the soft chime of my alarm at 6:15 AM, I knew I had a long journey ahead—from the charming seaside town of Stalis, Crete, all the way to the island of Aegina, near mainland Greece. I took a quick shower, packed the last few items into my bags, and stepped out into the early morning air, ready to catch the 7:05 AM bus to Heraklion.

A slight sense of nervous anticipation lingered—what if the bus didn’t arrive? What if I missed my ferry? But right on cue, the bus pulled up, busier than I had expected for such an early hour. I stowed my suitcase in the luggage compartment, found an empty seat towards the back, and settled in for the 50-minute ride. Along the way, we picked up fellow travelers, most heading to the airport, their holiday tans and stuffed suitcases marking the end of their adventures. Despite having been in Greece more than two months, I was grateful that my own holiday was still very much in progress and I was looking forward to the days ahead.

Heraklion and Ferry

Arriving at Heraklion’s bus station just before 8 AM, I remembered the area well enough to find my way across the road to the ferry port without pulling out my phone for directions. Unlike my previous experiences of arriving in Crete, this was the first time I’d be departing by sea. Spotting the ANEK Lines ferry, I made my way to a nearby kiosk to purchase my ticket (€36), then proceeded to board.

This ferry was different from others I’d taken—large suitcases were being stored separately in an outdoor container rather than inside the ship’s cargo area. Unsure of the procedure, I played it safe and joined the queue, handing over my bag in exchange for a luggage ticket before stepping on board. I found a quiet spot to sit, bracing myself for the long journey ahead.

The Longest Ferry Crossing

With 8 hours and 45 minutes between Heraklion and Piraeus, this was by far my longest ferry crossing in Greece. Determined to make the most of it, I started my journey on the rear deck, basking in the morning sun while flipping through my Kindle. The peaceful ambiance didn’t last long, though—soon, more passengers crowded the deck, and the ever-present smokers turned the fresh air into a hazy cloud. Time to relocate.

Wandering through the ferry in search of a quieter space, I stumbled upon the closed dining area. The doors were unlocked, and a few savvy travelers had already claimed tables. Spotting a prime spot by the window, I settled in, pulling out my laptop to work on some unfinished YouTube videos.

Lunch service came and went, but I managed to hold onto my table, snacking on the biscuits and crisps I had packed to avoid the overpriced ferry food. By mid-afternoon, however, hunger won out. I stretched my legs, grabbed a chocolate doughnut and a freddo espresso, and found a shaded outdoor nook to enjoy my snack while watching the endless stretch of blue sea roll by.

Time passed quickly—until it didn’t. By 5 PM, restlessness crept in. Checking my phone, I saw we were behind schedule, pushing my expected arrival in Piraeus past 6:30 PM. The final hour dragged as I flipped between my Kindle, Spotify, and obsessive glances at my phone’s GPS. At last, the ferry glided into Piraeus, docking at 6:45 PM.

Rushing in Vain

Determined to catch the 7 PM ferry to Aegina, I hurried off the boat, retrieved my suitcase (a chaotic process of jockeying for position at the luggage container), and half-jogged toward the ticket counter at gate E7. I arrived just as the clock hit 7:00—but it was too late. The ferry was gone.

It wasn’t a huge setback; frequent crossings to Aegina meant I could catch the 8 PM ferry instead. This one was slightly pricier (€19 instead of €12) but much faster, shaving the journey time from 70 minutes to just 40. With an unexpected hour to kill, I wheeled my suitcase to a nearby bar, ordered a well-earned cold beer, and soaked in the relaxed port atmosphere.

Ferry Number 2

As departure time neared, I made my way to gate E8, double-checking with a kiosk attendant to ensure I was in the right place. Then came my final vessel of the day—the Flying Dolphin, a sleek hydrofoil boat designed for speed. With just three other passengers boarding, we were off in no time.

At first, the journey felt exhilarating, the boat effortlessly gliding over the calm sea. But as we picked up speed, sharp tilts and unexpected jerks made for a slightly nerve-wracking ride. I adjusted quickly, though I was relieved when we finally pulled into Aegina’s port just before 9 PM.

Aegina

A short 10-minute walk brought me to my hotel—Hotel Aegina—where I checked into a simple yet comfortable room overlooking the front of the building. After a long day of travel, a refreshing shower was my first priority. Though exhaustion tugged at me, hunger won out, and I made my way back to the bustling harbor, eager to get my first taste of Aegina.

The waterfront was alive with energy, lined with inviting tavernas offering a mix of Greek and international cuisine. I took my time strolling past the menus before settling on Miralice, an elegant Italian spot. My meal—a starter of mixed bread with olive oil followed by spinach and ricotta ravioli—was satisfying, though not quite as exceptional as I had hoped. Still, it filled the void left by my day of light snacking.

With my appetite sated and a full day behind me, I returned to my hotel, ready to collapse into bed. Tomorrow would bring new adventures on Aegina, but for now, sleep was all I craved.