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Day 5: Koufonissi

July 5, 2018May 8, 2025, Trip Reports
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Koufonissi town beach
This post is part of a series called Mini Cyclades 2018
Show More Posts
  • Day 11: Naxos, Mykonos and Home
  • Day 10: Agia Anna last full day
  • Day 9: Naxos Agia Anna
  • Day 8: Heading back to Naxos
  • Day 7: Visiting Kato Koufonissi
  • Day 6: Koufonissi Pori Beach
  • Day 5: Koufonissi
  • Day 4: Naxos Plaka Beach and St George Beach
  • Day 3: Naxos Hiking Mount Zas
  • Day 2: Mykonos to Naxos
  • Day 1: Mykonos and Delos
  • Planning the 2018 trip

Today marked my last day on Naxos—at least until I return on Sunday! My next adventure takes me to the charming and picturesque island of Koufonissi. Having never visited before, I was thrilled to explore this hidden gem that isn’t as well-trodden by tourists.

To make the most of my morning, I packed my bags before breakfast, ensuring I could check out swiftly upon my return. Instead of the hotel breakfast, I treated myself at a local café, indulging in creamy Greek yoghurt with honey, toast and jam, refreshing orange juice, and a large coffee.

At 10:15 am, I headed back to my room, grabbed my bags, and checked to make sure nothing was left behind. After checking out, I made my way to the harbour, strolling towards the ferry port. With my Koufonissi ferry scheduled for 11:15 am, I bought my ticket and settled into the shade at a nearby taverna, a perfect spot for catching up on my Kindle and people-watching with a cold beer.

The ferry ride was a breezy 50 minutes, smooth and enjoyable. I stood outside at the back of the high-speed ferry, basking in the sun and avoiding the travel sickness I sometimes get indoors—a perfect combination.

For my accommodation, I chose Dafnis Studios and booked directly with the owner. This personal touch perhaps led to the kind offer of a port pickup, even though the rooms were just a few hundred meters away. I was grateful for this gesture, as the bumpy roads would have made hauling my suitcase uphill quite the workout. The accommodation was simple but immaculate and perfectly situated with a stunning view of the main beach just down the hill. Having booked a three-night stay, I took the time to properly unpack and hang my clothes to keep them fresh and wrinkle-free.

Ready for some food and drink, I changed into my beach gear and set out to explore. I discovered a subtle path leading down the hill from my apartment straight to the beach. Following it, I arrived at the delightful taverna O Lefteris, which seemed like the perfect spot to enjoy a leisurely lunch.

The beach is just a short downhill walk from Dafnis Studios.

After savouring a delicious Greek salad paired with a cold Mythos beer (what else could I ask for?!), I headed to the beautiful, smooth, sandy beach. I found a perfect spot, threw down my towel, and stretched out to bask in the sun while my lunch settled.

As the sun’s heat started to make me sweat, I grabbed my goggles and GoPro and sprinted toward the sea. Plunging into the crystal-clear water felt absolutely invigorating! The sea here is truly breathtaking: the water is incredibly clear and remains shallow for quite a distance. You can see just how stunning it is from a drone shot I captured the next day:

Aerial shot of Koufonissi town beach and harbour area.

When I finally grew tired of swimming around the boats anchored in the bay, I returned to my spot on the beach. After towelling off, I laid back down to dry and bask in the hot sun.

Feeling refreshed, I took a short walk back to my room to cool off before deciding to explore the southeastern part of the island. I had read about several beaches online and was eager to check them out. The coastline is dotted with numerous little bays, each with its own sandy beach. As I headed counter-clockwise from the south, I encountered the larger beaches of Finikas, Fanos, and Italida (also called Platia Pounta). These beaches were busier than I had anticipated, with many tourists soaking up the late afternoon sun. Since they were nearly full, I decided not to stop and, upon reaching Italida, turned back to head home.

The south-eastern side of Koufonissi, showing Finikas, Fanos and Italida beaches in the distance.

Feeling hungry after my light lunch, I showered, changed, and checked my phone for dinner options. One restaurant caught my eye: Lavanda e Rosmarino Trattoria Italiana, an Italian spot conveniently located near my apartment. It turned out to be an excellent choice. Arriving early, I had the place mostly to myself, which made the sublime service and food even more enjoyable. I indulged in large pasta tubes with a rich carbonara sauce for the main course, followed by a delightful ‘chocolate salami’ for dessert—a luscious chocolate mousse with chunks of biscuit.

With the evening still young, I took a leisurely stroll around the quaint main town. I circled back to my apartment via the scenic beach path around the harbour. By the time I returned, the sun had just set, marking the end of one of my best days in Greece.

The sun sets on a fantastic first day on Koufonissi
Posted in Trip Reports
Tagged Koufonisia
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   Day 4: Naxos Plaka Beach and St George Beach
Day 6: Koufonissi Pori Beach   

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Comments (2)

  • Andrea Puglisi June 28, 2024 at 9:47 pm Reply

    Hi, can you confirm that it is still possible to find accommodation during peak season by just speaking with people at the ferry arrival? Or it is strictly recommended to book in advance? Thanks!

    • Will Appleby July 6, 2024 at 9:41 am Reply

      I would say it depends very much on the island. Greek islands are becoming more popular each year and many of the most visited islands (Mykonos, Naxos, Paros, Santorini) can be almost totally booked in the height of peak season (mid-July to the end of August). I wouldn’t want to risk turning up to any of these places without accommodation already booked. Maybe you would get lucky and be fine, but maybe not, and what do you do if not? Ferry tickets are expensive now so if you then had to move island again, it adds cost and wastes time.

      I will admit that it’s not something I’ve ever tried to do, so I could be wrong about it. I do see people greeting arriving ferries holding boards with the name of hotels, but it’s not clear whether these people are advertising that they have rooms, or, I think it’s more likely they are there to meet guests who have already booked and have arranged transfers to the accommodation.

      If you try it, I’d be interested to know what the experience is like. I don’t know how much cheaper the rooms are if you book in this way. Usually, I still book online even if it’s just a day or two before I travel, so I can see photos and understand the location of the hotel to know if it suits my needs.

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