Day 7: Hiking the Edges of Donousa – Coastal Trails, Cold Beers & Quiet Beaches

Introduction

I woke up to my 7:30 alarm feeling reasonably rested and decided to get a bit more editing done on my Mykonos vlog before the day really kicked off. I was nearly finished, and by the time breakfast rolled around, I had it finalised and scheduled to go live later in the day – a satisfying start.

Meanwhile, Ed had been up early and returned from the bakery with a fresh loaf of bread. I joined him in his room just after 8, bringing along my stash of coffee, orange juice, Greek yoghurt and honey, while he added butter and jam. Together, it made for a proper, filling breakfast – perfect fuel for the hike we had planned around the island.

Clockwise Around Donousa – Off the Beaten Path

We set off around 9:30 a.m., leaving Stavros via the trail that starts from the middle of the beach and heading northeast. The route took us in a clockwise loop around Donousa, and while we didn’t encounter many people, the scenery made it feel anything but lonely.

The first part of the trail was a steady climb on a decent dirt road. As we reached the highest point, we got our first view of the eastern coastline – rugged, wild, and completely unspoiled. From there, the descent into Kalotaritissa started steep and rocky but soon mellowed into a gentler, winding slope.

Getting into the village was a bit unconventional. The trail seemed to want to take us around the back of it, but we opted to take a shortcut, cutting across some open ground and hopping a low stone wall to reach the road near Mitsos Taverna.

Beer, A Swim & The Scenic Route Back

We rewarded ourselves with a cold Eza Pilsner, which turned into two, enjoyed under the shade at a table outside the taverna. After a short rest, we wandered over to the beach. I went for a quick swim while Ed relaxed, and then we continued along the coastline.

The route back to Kedros followed the smoother east and south coast road, which was a welcome change after the earlier rugged climb. We barely saw a soul, just the wind, sea, and sun as our company.

I’d been to Livadi Beach the day before and gave Ed the option of making the detour so he could see it too, but he was happy to skip it in favour of reaching Kedros sooner, which worked out just fine.

Lunch by the Water & A Lazy Evening

Back at Kedros Beach, we stopped at the beachfront taverna for a late lunch. I ordered the black spaghetti with tomatoes and peppers, which was surprisingly good – rich, earthy, and full of flavour.

We got back to our accommodation around 3–3:30 p.m., and I took some time to rest and recover in my room before meeting Ed again around 7 for an early evening drink near the harbour.

By now, the lack of open restaurants on Donousa had become a bit of a running theme, so once again, we returned to the Iliovasilema restaurant at the hotel. This time, we shared a Greek salad and tzatziki, Ed added a side of chips, and I went for the moussaka – rich, warm, and a solid way to wrap up the day.

Donousa might not have the variety of a bigger island, but it makes up for it in authenticity and peace. The hike showed us a side of the island that few visitors ever see – and the beers at the end didn’t hurt either.