Day 13: Last Full Day on Iraklia – Sunshine, a Surprise Fan, and One Final Hike

A Brighter Morning and an Unexpected Encounter

I woke around 7 after another disrupted night’s sleep, this time thanks to rain and thunderstorms rolling through Iraklia. I opened the shutters, half-expecting more grey skies, but was happily surprised to find mostly blue sky again—though the wind was still quite strong.

After getting showered and filming a quick vlog update on the way, I headed out for breakfast. I’d planned to return to the same spot as yesterday, but changed my mind at the last minute and continued downhill to Perasma Cafe instead.

As I arrived, I bumped into the same American group I’d chatted to over dinner the night before. We caught up briefly, and they told me they were soon heading to Koufonisia — apparently on my recommendation!

I ordered a latte and Greek yoghurt with honey and nuts, then had a bit of a surreal moment. A woman at the next table looked over and asked, “Are you on YouTube?” I said yes, and she told me she’d watched quite a few of my videos — my first ever real-life viewer encounter! We ended up chatting for about an hour about the islands, Greek travel, and content creation. It was a great start to the day.

Supplies, Scrambles, and the Cave of Agios Ioannis

Eventually, I finished breakfast and walked back up to the hotel, only to remember just in time that I hadn’t picked up anything for the day’s hike. So I turned around and popped into Perigiali near the beach to stock up on essentials.

Around midday, I set off toward Agios Ioannis Cave, one of the island’s highlights–and the largest cave in the Cyclades–tucked into the rugged west coast. The route retraced some of yesterday’s path back up through Pano Chorio, before breaking west toward the cave. The hike took just under two hours one way, with a few rocky sections and scrambly bits, but nothing too intense.

The cave itself is quite atmospheric — especially if you’re the only one there — and I got some good footage before starting the return walk. I only learned later, after publishing my YouTube video, that the large cave I spent most of my time at isn’t Agios Ioannis, it’s called Polyphemus Cave! Agios Ioannis is actually opposite and requires crawling through a low entrance tunnel, as you can see below: something I was definitely not going to do on my own! I’m also a touch claustrophobic, so unfortunately, the inside of the cave will remain a mystery; you’ll have to see for yourself.

Beach Time and a Refuel at Livadi

On the way back, I stopped at Livadi Beach again, partly to film but also to unwind for a bit now the sun had returned. Before settling on the sand, I stopped at the beachfront taverna, Pera Panta, for a cold beer and Sprite combo. I contemplated food but couldn’t decide what to eat, so I settled for just drinks instead.

I lay out on the beach for about 30–45 minutes, soaking in the sunshine and letting my legs rest after the hike. Eventually, the late afternoon crept in, and I made my way back to the hotel around 5 p.m.

After downloading the day’s footage and getting some editing done, I realised I was completely drained — and starving — so I took a short nap from 5:45 to 6:30 to reset before dinner.

A Pizza Craving and Loukoumades Finale

I woke up absolutely ravenous. Aside from a chocolate croissant during the hike, I hadn’t eaten since breakfast. I tried my luck once more at the pizza/pasta place (Speires) near the hotel, but again, there was no sign of life. Even after walking down to the seating area, it looked deserted. I didn’t fancy being the only person there, so I gave up.

Determined to get pizza, I checked the menu at Maistrali B&B, where I’d had breakfast the other day. Success! They had a few pizza options, so I grabbed a table and — maybe a little overexcited — ordered bread, tzatziki, chips, and a special pizza.

The pizza came on a sourdough base, which was a bit unexpected, but it was tasty and I devoured nearly all of it (minus a few crusts). I only managed half the chips, but somehow still found room for dessert — a generous plate of loukoumades with chocolate sauce. I washed it all down with a half-litre of white wine and left feeling properly full.

Winding Down Before Departure

Back at the hotel, I worked on the Iraklia YouTube video while letting the mountain of food settle, then packed most of my gear ahead of tomorrow morning’s ferry to Naxos.

My time on Iraklia has been quiet, occasionally rainy, but full of small, memorable moments — perfect for slowing down, unplugging, and just being present. Tomorrow, it’s back to the bigger islands.