Day 12: Cloudy Iraklia – Hiking, Raindrops and Cheesecake Conversations

Grey Skies and Slow Starts

I woke up around 7:45 to a fully overcast sky over Iraklia. The gloomy weather had been forecast, but it still put a slight damper on my mood. A grey day doesn’t quite match the image most people have of exploring a Greek island. Still, I got stuck into the final edits of my Koufonisia YouTube video and scheduled it to go live later that day.

I wasn’t sure what the plan would be — I wanted to explore more of the island, maybe hike inland or up to one of the peaks, but I also didn’t want to get caught out if the weather took a turn for the worse. I grabbed the hiking map Ed had lent me and headed down to Maistrali, where I’d had lunch the day before, to study it over breakfast.

Breakfast was simple and satisfying: Greek yoghurt with honey and walnuts, plus an Americano (which arrived as more of an espresso, but came with a generous jug of milk on the side).

Fuelled Up and On the Trail

After weighing up a few routes, I decided to hike to Pano Chorio (also known as Panagia), and then either continue to Profitis Ilias or try the steeper summit trail to Papas Mountain Top — weather and terrain depending.

Before setting off, I needed supplies. I walked downhill toward the port to try Perigiali, one of two mini markets I’d found on Google Maps. Despite signs saying it opened at 9 a.m., it was still firmly shut by 9:10. Plan B took me west to a charming little shop called H MELISSA, which doubles as a post office and ferry ticket office. There I picked up a can of Coke, a bottle of water, and a chocolate croissant — the essentials.

Back at my room, I packed up, showered, applied sunscreen (despite the lack of sunshine), and headed out just before 10. The breeze was strong, the clouds thick, but it stayed dry.

Summit Scramble and a Scenic Plan B

The hike to Pano Chorio was straightforward, following a paved road with just a few steeper sections. Once there, I felt ambitious and decided to try the summit path toward Papas. Unfortunately, after a few hundred metres, it turned into a steep rocky scramble. With the weather unpredictable, the trail empty, and no backup if I got into trouble, I made the sensible choice to turn back.

Instead, I followed the route to Profitis Ilias, which was much more manageable — a rocky, slightly uneven but clear path. I stopped at the little church to film some clips and enjoy the surprisingly expansive views. Even under cloudy skies, Iraklia’s rugged beauty came through.

Kastro Detour and Back to Base

On the way back, I made a short detour to Kastro, the ruins behind Livadi Beach. It was mildly interesting, but the real appeal was the peacefulness of the area. I returned to the hotel around 1:30, just as the first few drops of rain started to fall. The rest of the afternoon was spent editing the new Iraklia video and sheltering from the weather.

Rainy Evening Wander and a New Dinner Spot…Or Not

By 6 p.m., I was getting restless, so I headed out despite the light rain. It was still warm, so I didn’t bother with a jacket. I walked down toward the port, hoping to find a new spot for dinner and maybe grab a drink or snack to stretch out the evening.

I found a small café called Nyphikó, where I sat alone under a big umbrella with a coffee and Mamos beer, watching the occasional person pass by in the wind and drizzle.

Dinner plans had originally included Submarine Restaurant, but even after lingering at the café, it still looked empty. I didn’t fancy sitting alone in a silent dining room, so I returned to Akathi, where I’d eaten the night before. I wasn’t sure I wanted moussaka again, but after browsing the menu and spotting burgers with Naxos potatoes, I decided that would do nicely.

I also ordered sourdough bread and tzatziki, and shortly after sitting down, a woman at a neighbouring table struck up a conversation. She and her group were Americans travelling around the Cyclades by catamaran. We chatted for a while about the islands and travel, and I recommended Koufonisia for their next stop if they were after postcard-perfect beaches.

The food was great, and I decided to end the meal with a strawberry cheesecake, which turned out to be excellent — rich, creamy, and a definite highlight of the day.

A Quiet End to a Grey Day

After dinner, I walked back to the hotel in the light rain. The quiet streets, low clouds, and soft evening light gave Iraklia a different sort of charm — muted, moody, but peaceful. I spent the rest of the night winding down, updating my notes, and looking ahead to what the next day might bring.