Day 10: Last Full Day on Koufonisia – Caves, Coastline and a Nearly Perfect Moussaka

A Bakery Hunt and an Early Start

Despite setting my alarm for 8, I was wide awake by 6:30. I spent the early part of the morning working on my Koufonisia YouTube video, then headed out at 8 in search of bread.

What followed was a brief but amusing bit of confusion: the shop called Koufonisia Bakery doesn’t actually sell bread — just coffee and cakes. Thankfully, the girl inside kindly pointed me down the road toward the actual bakery, a completely unmarked building near the beach. There, I picked up a great sourdough loaf for just €1.

Back in my room, I made a simple but satisfying breakfast: coffee, orange juice, bread, butter, and jam. Then I got my gear together and headed out around 9 for one last walk along the island’s eastern coastline.

Coastal Walk and the Devil’s Eye Sea Cave

I retraced the same path Ed and I had walked on our first day, but this time I was filming for the YouTube video as well. The weather had steadily warmed throughout my trip, now reaching around 27°C, and the sun was already strong by mid-morning, feeling great and more reminiscent of my usual Greek summer experiences.

One of the highlights was a stop at the Devil’s Eye sea cave, a dramatic little spot where you can swim inside a small cave connected to the open sea by a short underwater tunnel. I flew the drone above the site and was really pleased to capture some great shots of the cliffs, turquoise water, and swimmers diving in.

A Swim at Pori and a Beer at Finikas

I continued to Pori Beach, where I took a refreshing swim. The sea was still cool, but bearable — especially under the hot sun. Rather than take the less scenic inland road back to Chora (Ed and I had used this road on Wednesday), I retraced the coastal path, stopping at Finikas Taverna just before noon for a cold Mythos (€3.50).

Back in my room, I cooled off, edited a bit more video, and then went out again for lunch. I’d hoped to find a gyros place but came up short, so I ended up back at Opsianos for a very satisfying club sandwich (€10) and a chilled Corona (€5). Pricey, but worth it.

Cloudy Sunbathing and a Chill Evening

In the afternoon, I went back out around 5 for some late sunbathing on the town beach. Although it had turned slightly cloudy, the sun broke through now and then, and I enjoyed a peaceful hour reading on my Kindle and soaking up the final rays of the day.

I had brought my camera, hoping for golden hour photos, but the sky stayed overcast, so I skipped the photo session and returned to my room to relax before dinner.

Moussaka, Shops and Starting to Pack

For my final dinner on Koufonisia, I went to Meatato, a lively little spot just off the main street in Chora, opposite Opsianos. I ordered feta with honey to start and then had a moussaka served in an individual clay bowl — just the way I like it. It came close to perfect, but was slightly overcooked in parts, so the top was a bit too crispy. Still, it was one of the better ones I’ve had. I also had half a litre of white wine, and the whole setting was great for people-watching.

After dinner, I tried to shoot some GoPro footage, but the lighting was poor and the results weren’t usable. I wandered through a few shops, picked up a couple of things, then returned to my room, packed a few bits ahead of the next leg of the journey, and headed to bed.

YouTube Video on Koufonisia

If you’ve enjoyed reading about my time on Koufonisia, you might also enjoy the video version available below: